MANUFACTURE COAST GUARD FABRIC

DLA Troop Support is seeking sources sought for manufacturers that can produce the material: Cloth, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend shall be dyed CG Blue 3362. The specifications for these materials are listed below:

Specifications: CG/PD 04-9407B

1. SCOPE.

1. 1. Scope. This purchase description covers wind resistant poplin nylon/cotton cloth, dyed to match Coast Guard Blue 3362.

1. 1. Classification. The cloth shall be of one class only. It shall have a durable soil, stain, and wrinkle resistant finish.
2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

1. 1. Specifications. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this Purchase Description to the extent specified herein.
   2. Government documents.

1. 1. 1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

FEDERAL

FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 – Thread, Polyester-Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

(Copies of documents required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

1. 1. Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies are available online at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC – 8          - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC -15          - Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC – 16        - Colorfastness to Light AATCC -20                           - Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC -20A       - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

AATCC – 61        - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC – 81        - pH of the Water-Extract from Bleached Textiles

AATCC – 96        - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics Except Wool

AATCC – 130      - Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method

AATCC – 135      Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics

AATCC – 143      - Fabric Appearance/Smoothness AATCC 3-D         - Smoothness Appearance Replicas

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies of documents are available on line at www.aatcc.org of from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

ASTM-D-276 – Identification of Fibers in Textiles ASTM-D-629 – Quantitative Analysis of Textiles ASTM-D-737 – Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics

ASTM-D-1424 – Tear Resistance of Woven Fabrics by Falling Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus

ASTM-D-3775 – Fabric Count of Woven Fabric

ASTM-D-3776 – Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric, Option C

ASTM-D-3885 – Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method) ASTM-D-5034 – Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) G-E or GT ASTM-D-6193 – Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of documents are available online at www.astm.org or from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

1. 1. Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

1. REQUIREMENTS
   1. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2).

1. 1. Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3).
   2. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

1. 1. 1. Cotton. The cotton shall be carded and combed.
      2. Nylon. The nylon shall be first quality, high tenacity, semi-dull having a nominal cut length of 1- 1/2 inches and a round cross-section with a nominal denier of 1.6 to 1.8. The use of any form of nylon waste is prohibited, such as undrawn fiber, mixtures of deniers, luster or cross-sections, and waste from any stage of fiber production whether drawn, undrawn, mixed or garneted fiber. The contractor shall submit the fiber producer’s certification that each lot of nylon staple used conforms to the requirements specified herein.

1. 1. 1. Yarn. The warp and filling yarn shall be made from a blend of 50 +/- 5 percent nylon with the remaining percentage cotton based on the dry weight of the desized cloth. The warp yarn shall be 2-ply and the filling yard shall be 2-ply or singles.

1. 1. Color. The cloth shall be dyed CG Blue 3362.

1. 1. 1. Labile sulfur. When dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid are used, they shall be chosen and applied so that the dyed cloth shall contain no more than a rating of “slight’ or better for the labile sulfur. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.
      2. Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 +/- 200 K illumination of 100 +/- 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under horizon lamplight at 2300 +/- 200K.

1. 1. 1. Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall conform to the colorfastness requirements listed below in Table I when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE I. Colorfastness requirements.

Color evaluation

Laundering (4 cycles) 1/

(min.)

Light

(40 hrs. or 170 KJ) 2/ (min.)

Perspiration (acid & alkaline)

1/ (min.)

Crocking 3/ (min.)

CG Blue 3362

3-4

4.5

4.5

3.5

1/ Rated using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Gray Scale for Staining. 2/ Rated using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change

3/ Rated using the AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale (Applicable to both wet and dry fabric)

1. 1. Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table II, when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE II. Physical requirements

Characteristic

Requirement

Weight, oz./sq.yd. Minimum Maximum

6.0

7.0

Yarns per inch (minimum) Warp

Filling

102

52

Breaking strength (pounds) minimum Warp

Filling

200

90

Tearing strength (pounds) minimum Warp

Filling

7.0

5.0

Air permeability (cu. ft. /min/ sq. ft) maximum

15.0

Fabric Appearance/ Smoothness Initial (minimum)

After 20 launderings (minimum)

5

3.5

Flex abrasion (cycles) minimum Warp

Filling

20,000 1/

18,000 1/

1/ After 20 launderings performed as specified in AATCC 135, Table I (3, IV, iii).

1. 1. 1. Weave. The weave shall be a plain weave with reinforcement ribs in both the warp and filling directions forming a uniform pattern. The ribs shall be formed by having every twenty-forth warp end contain two ends weaving as one and every thirteenth filling contain two picks weaving as one. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.2.
      2. Width. For government procurements only, the width of the finished cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage.

1. 1. Finish. The cloth shall be given a durable stain resistant finish as specified in 3.6.1 and a durable wrinkle resistant finish as specified in 3.6.2.
      1. Stain resistant finish. The cloth shall be given a durable stain resistant finish conforming to the requirements specified in Table III when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

TABLE III – Stain resistance

Characteristic

Requirement

Burnt Motor Oil Stain Release

Grade 3.0 (minimum) – 20 washes 1/

Transmission Fluid Stain Release

Grade 3.0 (minimum) – 20 washes 1/

1/ After 20 launderings performed as specified in AATCC 135, Table I (3, IV, iii).

1. 1. 1. Wrinkle resistant finish. The cloth shall be given a wrinkle resistant finish treatment to match the “hand” crispness, fabric appearance, and smoothness of the guide sample provided.
      2. pH. The pH of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be not lower then 5.0 or higher than

8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

1. 1. Dimensional stability. The shrinkage or elongation both in the warp and filling of the finished cloth shall be not greater than 3.5 percent after 5 launderings when tested as specified in 4.4.2.
   2. Seam efficiency. The finished cloth shall have a seam efficiency of not less than 80 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

1. 1. Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2) the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards. Each length shall be put- up full width on a roll as specified in 5.1.
   2. Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.
   3. Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the applicable established maximum point values.

1. VERIFICATION
   1. Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)
2. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

1. 1. First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finished defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in Table IV.

4.3  Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4 and the tests of 4.4.2 as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with quality acceptance levels as specified in the contract and /or order, except where otherwise indicated.

4.3.1       Material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, the material shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents.

1. 1. Examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. All defects, as defined in section I of FED- STD-4, that are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.4.1 except that only those slobs and knots which exceed the limits shown on the Sears Fabric Defect Scale (see 6.5), “D” or “3-1/2” as applicable for slubs and “C” for knots, shall be scored and coarse yarn shall only be scored as a defect when the coarse yarn is twice the diameter of he normal yarn used in the fabric. No linear yard (increments of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll shall be penalized more than four points. The sample size shall be 20 rolls selected from 20 containers. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards

examined exceeds 30.0 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of two or more individual rolls exceeds 45.0 points. If one roll in the sample exceeds 45.0 points per 100 square yards, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined for individual roll quality only. The lot shall be unacceptable if one of more rolls in the second sample exceeds 45.0 points per 100 square yards.                                Point computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

Total points scored in sample x 3600

                                                                                                                = Points per 100 square yards Contracted width of cloth (inches) x Total yards inspected

1. 1. 1. Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows:

For defects up to 3 inches in any dimension                  - one point For defects exceeding 3 inches, but not

exceeding 6 inches in any dimension                              - two points For defects exceeding 6 inches but not

exceeding 9 inches in any dimension                              - three points For defects exceeding 9 inches in any dimension                - four points

The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points for each yard in which they occur:

Objectionable odor; baggy, ridgy, or wavy cloth; overall uncleanness; uneven weaving throughout.

1. 1. 1. End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table IV. The methods of testing as specified wherever applicable and as listed in Table IV shall be followed. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample unit shall be 5 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests. The lost hall be unacceptable if one of more sample units or the lot average for dimensional stability fail to met any requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards)

Sample size (sample units)

800 or less

2

801 up to and including 22,000

3

22,001 and over

5

Table IV – End item tests

Characteristics

Requirement Paragraph

Test Method

Material

Cotton :

Identification

3.3.1

AATCC-20 or ASTM-D-276 1/ 2/

Combed cotton

3.3.1

1/

Nylon:

Identification

3.3.2

AATCC-20 or ASTM-D-276 1/ 2/

Luster

3.3.2

1/

Denier

3.3.2

1/

Absence of nylon waste

3.3.2

1/

Fiber content: Cotton content

3.3.3

AATCC-20A or ASTM –D-629 1/ 2/ 3/

Nylon content

3.3.3

AATCC-20A or ASTM-D-629 1/ 2/

Yarn ply

3.3.3

Visual 4/

Presence of labile sulfur

3.4.1

1/

Table IV – End item tests (continued)

Characteristics

Requirement

Test Method

Paragraph

Visual shade matching

3.4.2

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A

Colorfastness:

Light (after 40 hrs or 170

3.4.3

AATCC-16 Opt 1 or 3

kilojoules)

Laundering (after 4 cycles)

3.4.3

AATCC-61 Test 3A 5/

Crocking

3.4.3

AATCC-8

Perspiration (acid &

alkaline)

3.4.3

AATCC-15

Weight

3.5

ASTM-D-3776

Breaking Strength

3.5

ASTM-D-5034

Tearing Strength

3.5

ASTM-D-1424

Yarns per Inch

3.5

ASTM-D-3775

Air Permeability

3.5

ASTM-D-737

Weave

3.5.1

Visual 1/

Fabric Appearance/

Smoothness

Initial

3.5

AATCC-143

After 20 launderings

3.5

AATCC-143, Table II, 3V Aiii

Flex abrasion

3.5

ASTM-D-3885

pH

3.6.3

AATCC-81

Soil and Stain Release

3.6.1

AATCC-130, 8/

Dimensional stability

3.7

AATCC 96 VI c, 6/

Seam efficiency

3.8

ASTM –D-5034, 7/

1/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and acceptable for the stated requirement (see 6.4).

2/ In case of dispute, the ASTM method prevails.

3/ The cotton content shall be calculated as follows: Cotton content, percent = R/S x 100

R = Weight of residual fibers

S = Weight of dry desized specimen

4/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result reported as “pass or fail”. 5/ Only the stain on the nylon and cotton fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated and the stain shall be “3-4” or better. Since each 45 minute test approximates 5 home or commercial launderings, 4 cycles simulate 20 launderings.

6/ The dimensional stability test shall be performed after 5 cycles. The cloth shall not be pressed after tumble drying prior to the measurement.

7/ The needle shall measure 0.040+/-0.001 inch across the blade at the eye. The thread for all types shall be cotton or polyester covered in accordance with A-A-50199, ticket no. 50, 2 or 3 ply for the needle and ticket no. 70, 2 or 3 ply for the looper.

8/ Burnt motor oil and transmission fluid shall be used in lieu of corn oil.

1. PACKAGING

1. 1. Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order. (see 6.2).
2. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

1. 1. Intended use. The cloth is intended for use in the manufacture of Coast Guard Operational Dress Uniforms and requisite embroidered insignia.
   2. Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:
2. Title, number, and date of this specification.
3. When first article is required (see 3.1 and 4.2)
4. Width of the cloth required (see 3.5.2)
5. Length required if other than specified (see 3.9)
6. Packaging (see 5.1)
   1. Standard sample. For access to samples and pattern drawings, address the contract activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

1. 1.  Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification.
   2. Fabric defect scales. Fabric Defect Replica Kits are available from Sears Roebuck and Company, Department 817 (ATTN: BSC 23-29), Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684.

1. 1. Subject term (key word) listing.

Clothing Blue

All items must be Berry Amendment Compliant.  In accordance with "Section 833 of the National Defense Authorization Act for Fiscal Year 2006 Act added language to 10 U.S.C. 2533a requiring that all articles or items of "clothing", including the materials and components thereof, purchased by the Department of Defense be grown, reprocessed, reused, or produced in the United States, other than sensors, electronics, or other items added to, and not normally associated with, clothing (and the materials and components thereof)."  Therefore, all components must be of domestic origin in compliance with DFARS clause 252.225-7012, Preference for Certain Domestic Commodities (December 2017). 

In an effort to ascertain interest, the Government is seeking interested vendors to produce the subject material.  Response date is on or before October 23, 2025 at 3:00PM Local Time.  If you are interested or have any questions, please send an e-mail to joseph.parker@dla.mil